This versatile Italian red is Sicily’s answer to Pinot noir (VinePair)

Put down the Pinot Noir and step away from the corkscrew. There’s a new light red in town, and — I’m going to say it —it’s better.

Nerello Mascalese isn’t some sommelier favorite that’s hard to pronounce and impossible to find outside of hipster wine bars. It’s the people’s grape of Mount Etna, Sicily, and one of the few varieties that have survived centuries of trends, phylloxera, and volcanic eruptions.

Etna by Guido Borelli.jpg
L’Etna by Guido Borelli

Sicily is no stranger to grapevines, but most of the island’s modern winemaking has focused on bulk production and sweet Marsala. While certain growers were caving to economic pressures and replanting ancient vineyards with high-yielding varieties destined for bulk wine, Nerello Mascalese continued to silently thrive. A longtime local favorite, it’s also getting its due beyond the confines of the Mediterranean’s largest island.

In the Sicilian city Catania, one can survey the Mediterranean Sea, smoking Mount Etna, and mainland Italy, all from a single vantage point. The volcano is a constant presence here, referred to with reverence and feminine pronouns. Its steady stream of smoke provides incredible nutrients for the vines and farms in the area, leading many locals to consider Etna akin to Mother Earth.

Nerello Mascalese evolved to suit the crumbly volcanic soils that surround the volcano and vineyards of eastern Sicily. Here, low rainfall and well-drained soils make for a tough vine-growing environment. Like most of the Mediterranean, Etna’s edges are hot and sunny all summer long, but high elevation cools temperatures at night. These otherwise challenging conditions create the ideal ambiance for scraggly Nerello Mascalese vines.

Because of the area’s wild temperature swings, vines are trained in the traditional albarello, or bush method. The fruit stays close to the ground, from which stored heat radiates at night.  The strategy means most Nerello Mascalese is still picked by hand from the hillsides.

Climbing up the steep slopes of Mount Etna, the connection between the volcano and its bounty is easy to see. Between wild fennel bushes, chestnut trees, and ancient olive groves, swaths of vines curve upward from soil as black as charcoal. Fist-sized bunches of deeply purple grapes dangle below. The fruit is an interesting mix of intensely sweet juice contrasted with fiercely bitter tannins in the skins, and crunchy brown seeds. It’s an awkward flavor medley in a raw fruit, but forms the perfect trifecta for excellent red wines.

The rest of the article here: This versatile Italian red is Sicily’s answer to Pinot noir (VinePair)


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